New in Town
Ken and Aki Ballogdajan, the brother-and-sister duo behind Kenaki Sushi Counter in Gaithersburg and Ako by Kenaki in Capitol Hill, opened a third eatery in Cabin John Village in July. Kema by Kenaki is an elevated fast-casual concept: Order at the counter, and you’ll be served at your table. The playful Japanese menu features such warm and cold dishes as pork belly buns with hoisin-ginger barbecue sauce, and a crisp arugula, orange and watermelon radish salad laced with a yuzu-shoyu vinaigrette. Sushi, however, is the main event. Daily offerings include an array of maki, nigiri and sashimi, as well as hand rolls, which have quickly become a local favorite. Try the Chunky Spicy Tuna or the Deep Sea, a sublime blend of miso-marinated Chilean sea bass tempura, roasted pineapple, gari, red onion, cilantro and cucumber. Bringing the kids? They’ll go gaga over the strawberry and banana parfait, which includes such unexpected touches as Nutella mousse, toasted meringue and cornflakes.
11325 Seven Locks Road (Cabin John Village), Suite 115, Potomac, kemasushi.com
Let’s Have a Chaat
Chances are high you’ve driven past Guru Groceries and Chaat House on Old Georgetown Road, but don’t let its nondescript exterior fool you—inside lies one of Bethesda’s hidden gems. Opened in July 2019 by the husband-and-wife team of Deepak and Madhu Khemka, this grocery/snack shop hybrid is a go-to for stocking up on Indian pantry staples, frozen Indian cuisine and freshly made chaat. Look for imported spices and Indian mangoes, as well as specialty items such as curry leaf trees and fresh mithai come Diwali. Locals are particularly fond of frozen meals, including chicken tikka masala and saag paneer, to heat up at home. Although Chaat House has been closed for sit-down service since the arrival of the pandemic, freshly made fare such as mango lassis, vegetable samosas and lentil fritters are available to go. The Khemkas offer catering as well.
7817 Old Georgetown Road, Bethesda, facebook.com/gurugroceries
Comings & Goings
Wiseguy Pizza opened its fifth regional location at the Westfield Wheaton mall
in September.
Zuma opened in Bethesda in September, featuring an Asian-Latin fusion concept by chef Mitsuhisa Nishio.
Sushi Damo closed its doors in Rockville Town Square in October.
Mackie’s Barbecue Co., a family-owned and -operated business with locations in Frederick and Gaithersburg, expanded to Olney in October.
Pinch of Wisdom
“Whether you’re grilling or pan searing, it’s essential to let your meat rest to allow the juices
to redistribute before slicing. This will prevent your meat from drying out or becoming chewy.
A good rule of thumb is to allow the meat to rest for half the time you cooked it.”
–Colin McClimans, chef and co-owner of Opal in Chevy Chase, D.C., and ElenaJames in Chevy Chase, Maryland
This story appears in the January/February issue of Bethesda Magazine.